Answer 1:
This is something that scientists and surfers
refer to as wave breaking. It is very
complicated
and very important to understand, not only for
surfing. When waves break they mix air and
water together. Breaking waves can pull sand up
from the beach and move it around. This is
important for any of the creatures that live or
play in the ocean, including people. Scientists do
not completely understand how waves break yet, and
very powerful computers are needed to study them
in detail. What we do know is that waves break when
the top of the wave is moving faster than the
bottom of the wave. This can happen when wind is
blowing on the waves, pushing their tops forward
and knocking them over. It can also happen when
waves come in to a beach. The wave gets very
steep, and the top of the wave comes flying
forward, sometimes crashing all the way to the
water below. |
Answer 2:
The ocean 'turns over' due to density
differences
between different masses of water. If you have
water at the surface that becomes more saline (due
to evaporation of freshwater, for example) its
density will increase and if it increases enough
to be more dense than the water below it, the
surface water will sink. Click Here to return to the search form.
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